Scenthusiasm

Materials

There is far more to materials than just the aroma, although the actual smell is crucial of course. As perfumers get to know their materials better, we all start to realise that they behave differently from each other, and differently again in different situations. It's something which comes with experience, and that's why I don't want you to rush through this. I think of them as being like people, all with their own characteristics, but able to adapt according to who else is in the room. Some are lead singers, and others are the backing group.

For example, Hedione doesn't smell of much to me and to many other people. But I add it to perfumes because I know that it makes them appear fresh, clear and bright. It makes naturals smell far more natural! Often a total beginner will resist adding Hedione to a blend because they think it will dilute it, but the exact opposite happens. There's no way of knowing this just by smelling it alone. When you add patchouli to mint essential oil you get the aroma of After Eights; add it to sweet orange and Terry's Chocolate Orange appears in the air. Some materials add "lift" to a fragrance and help it to project into the space around you, but it may not last very long. Others add a rich feeling, smoothness or softness.

When I advise people to get to know their materials, which is partly about the scent, but also about the way they act in different circumstances. Recent neuroscientific research shows that some aromachemicals switch off scent receptors in the brain, so even if an aroma is present, we can't detect it - like the way painkillers disguise an ache. Others will switch on receptors even though the aroma is not present! There is still a lot to learn about the sense of smell, and even the most experienced perfumers must start from scratch each time a new material is introduced to their palettes. This will take time, but you can progress quickly with practice.